Joseph Stalin died in 1953. First Secretary Khrushchev ousted the Stalinists and released restrictions on the arts. The period was known as the Thaw. The optimism of the time was captured by the 1964 film Walking the Streets of Moscow (Ya shagayu po Moskve). A cheerful young man (Nikita Mikhalkov) meets a tourist (Aleksei Loktev) on the subway and offers to show him around. They gather friends, have adventures and annoy tired adults. Director Georgiy Daneliya and writer Gennady Shpalikov create an infectious energy. Moscow seems full of hope and possibility for the new generation. The Thaw was nearly over. But the film was embraced by Russia’s youth.

I’ll cover the loose plot in this spoiler filled recap.

Stepping out with my baby

Scene One: The Moscow Underground
(Kolya, a handsome construction worker, finishes his shift, showers with his comrades, and hops on the train home. He sees Volodya, a lost tourist.)
VOLODYA: How do I find Stroitelny Lane?
RUDE MAN: IDIOT. GO LEFT. THEN RIGHT. THEN BLAH BLAH BLAH.
KOLYA: This guy’s clueless. I’ll take you there.

Scene Two: Outside a Church
VOLODYA: A famous author agreed to read my short stories. But he’s not home. Ouch!
(An angry dog bites Volodya)
KOLYA: Who owns this dog?
KID: The lady with the kerchief. She’s in the church.
KOLYA: EVERY lady here has a kerchief. Is that your dog? Is that your dog?
WOMAN: Did he run away?
KOLYA: He bit my friend. Is he rabid?
WOMAN: Dunno. Probably not.

Scene Three: Kolya’s Apartment
KOLYA (lounging in his boxers): Take off your pants. My sister will sew the tear.
VOLODYA: Two bros chilling in their boxers. Five feet apart cause they’re not…
SOLDIER (a hapless twink): Hey! I need your help Kolya! I’m getting married tonight. I need to defer my draft papers and buy a suit.
KOLYA: Then let us sidequest! For love! (Kisses Volodya on the forehead.)
VOLODYA: Ha ha. Oh you.

Scene Four: Record Shop
ALYONA (a serious clerk): Right away sir.
KOLYA: Remember me?
ALYONA: Yes. The troublemaker. We’re sold out ma’am.
KOLYA: My friend’s a published writer. We need a date to a wedding.
ALYONA: Which of you would I be dating?
KOLYA: … Doesn’t matter.

Scene Five: Author’s House
MYSTERY MAN: Your stories are too cheerful. Russians are sad and mean.
VOLODYA: You’re wrong. There’s still compassion in this land. Are you the author?
AUTHOR: He’s my janitor. Your stories are great kid. I want to publish them. Who’s your friend?
KOLYA: A poet.

Scene Six: Wedding
VOLODYA: Boy a lot more stuff happened on the way to the wedding. And now it’s raining!
ALYONA (dances barefoot in the rain): I made it.
SOLDIER: The wedding is off! The bride hates me!
KOLYA: (Gently rubs the soldier’s scalp) There, there. I’ll call her. HEY BRIDE! He says he’s an idiot and he’s sorry.
SOLDIER: Gimme that phone. I love you baby.
KOLYA: Good karma for me. (Sees Volodya and Alyona dancing) Why does this make me sad?

Scene Seven: Train station
VOLODYA: I was only here the day. I have to go home.
ALYONA: Goodbye.
KOLYA: Goodbye.
(The three part ways.)
KOLYA: (sings) Walking the streets of Moscow. It’s a lovely day. Just strollin’ through Moscow. Feeling young and…
CLERK: Hey! Why are you shouting?
KOLYA: I’m singing.
CLERK: Go on then.
KOLYA: (sings) The future is bright in Moscow!

THE END

Singing in the Rain

The Thaw ended and censorship returned. Screenwriter Gennady Shpalikov would succumb to alcoholism and take his own life. Director Georgiy Daneliya continued making films, under tighter restrictions, for the next four decades.

A top Letterboxd review calls Walking the Streets of Moscow the “Gay Soviet Before Sunrise.” Most critics assume Kolya’s in love with Alyona. But some modern viewers think he’s in love with Volodya. I’ve found no evidence of this being canon. This isn’t a Winter Kept Us Warm (1965) situation of sneaking queerness past the censors. But a queer read gives the film some spice. Kolya’s loyalty to his friends, old and new, encapsulates the filmmakers hope for Russia’s future. The film is a joy to watch. I highly recommend it.

You can find more of my reviews on The Avocado, Letterboxd and Serializd. My podcast, Rainbow Colored Glasses, can be found here.